INTRODUCTION: The spring and summer couture collections being presented in Paris are paying a subtle tribute to the late Christian Dior who revolutionised fashion with his so-called "new look" 30 years ago this month.
INTRODUCTION: The spring and summer couture collections being presented in Paris are paying a subtle tribute to the late Christian Dior who revolutionised fashion with his so-called "new look" 30 years ago this month. The wasp-waisted dresses and flowing lines which Dior immortalised in 1947 are back again. This theme was very strong when Pierre Cardin presented his spring collection this month.
SYNOPSIS: The Cardin salon in Paris has become well known for its simple designs in the search for the "new". There was a Grecian feeling in Cardin's designs for young girls between the ages of 14 and 19. The gathered waistline was a very popular feature with Dior. But one change from the past is the hemline. Cardin has sent them soaring upwards in some designs to reveal the knees which Dior always insisted were the most unattractive part of the female anatomy. The padded shoulders have also gone and everything features soft fabrics.
Colours in the collection are light and clear with white most popular,followed by eggshell and the pale ivories. However, another Paris designer, Yves Saint Laurant is reported to favour a mixture of black with strong vibrant hues. But Cardin has tried to reflect the lightness and freshness of springtime through a combination of colour and soft edges. The classical easy-to-wear started back in April last year but have since been developed by other designers. However, the main emphasis is on femineity.
Cardin has used the face to contrast the lightness of his designs by emphasising the eyes and mouth with heavy make-up.
For evening wear the hemlines have been lowered but there is the same flowing feeling in the dresses. This brown and white a strapless gown has wing-like side panels which change the main line. Side vents increase the sense of movement within the dress itself.
Cardin also presented this hand-painted gown for his evening wear collection. The multi-coloured soft fabrics and wrap-over sleeves repeat the feeling of movement that is so much part of Cardin's designs this year. However, the little waist corset of the 1940s that helped many women into the Dior fashions are no longer popular. Women of 1977 must match the wispiness of Cardin's dresses if they are to make the most of his spring collection.